Just be aware that those flatpack furniture wrenches are made from quite soft material. If you try to use them on, say, the rear brake rotor bolts on a 2007 Triumph Rocket III, both the wrench and the bolt will be ruined, you’ll have to go to the hardware store to get a proper hardened steel tool, end up having to reuse the damaged bolt anyway, damaging it more in the process, and leaving it for the next guy to figure out. The next guy is me, but I hate that guy, so it’s fine.
Sort of similar story for me, although not with one of these spare wrenches. I installed a new steering damper on a 2014 Ducati 899. I wasn’t able to get enough clearance for the torque wrench when installing it, so I used an extender. I don’t know what exactly happened, but I ended up stripping the bolt. At least it’s torqued correctly for now, and as an added bonus, with blue loctite! I feel bad for the next guy who’s going to have to replace that steering damper next. It’s probably going to be me, so fuck me. In actuality, it’s likely going to involve replacing that entire steering column…Fuuuuuck
Weld a nut onto the top of it. Should be able to accomplish this with a MIG and a steady hand
Cut a slot in the top with a rotary tool cutting wheel, use a large manual impact driver to crack it, or a dull chisel/flat punch and a hammer to tap it around (clearance might be an issue here)
Rotary tool again, cut faces on two sides, locking pliers, turn them with channel locks
Rotay tool yet again, cut faces on six sides, hammer a possibly sacrificial six point socket on it
Last option is rotary tool again, grind that head clean off. If there’s enough exposed shaft after the part removal then turn with vice grips. Hopefully you used brand name Loc-tite.
Otherwise its screw extract time. I suggest Micro-grabits. Only reliable option IME.
I forgot about the part where you take your little bike to the hardware store and it melts the top end on the way back and you have to push it home. And also the part about how cylinders for it are unobtanium.
I did a winter project with a friend, rebuilding an original Trident rolling basket. He had always wanted one. I have never hated any motorcycle as much as that one. We finish it, the snow melts, it runs great, sounds awesome, rides like shit, he loved it anyway. It lasted a full 11 days before it sheared a wristpin and launched a piston through the head.
Just be aware that those flatpack furniture wrenches are made from quite soft material. If you try to use them on, say, the rear brake rotor bolts on a 2007 Triumph Rocket III, both the wrench and the bolt will be ruined, you’ll have to go to the hardware store to get a proper hardened steel tool, end up having to reuse the damaged bolt anyway, damaging it more in the process, and leaving it for the next guy to figure out. The next guy is me, but I hate that guy, so it’s fine.
Should have bought a KTM. Every fastener has both torx and hex so you can strip each bolt twice!
Sort of similar story for me, although not with one of these spare wrenches. I installed a new steering damper on a 2014 Ducati 899. I wasn’t able to get enough clearance for the torque wrench when installing it, so I used an extender. I don’t know what exactly happened, but I ended up stripping the bolt. At least it’s torqued correctly for now, and as an added bonus, with blue loctite! I feel bad for the next guy who’s going to have to replace that steering damper next. It’s probably going to be me, so fuck me. In actuality, it’s likely going to involve replacing that entire steering column…Fuuuuuck
Torque wrenches take length into account in the calibration…
I’d love a picture so that I can speculate on options.
How many torques are on that?
Ideas:
I like you, you’re a good human. Saving this for if/when it needs to be replaced in the future.
Last option is rotary tool again, grind that head clean off. If there’s enough exposed shaft after the part removal then turn with vice grips. Hopefully you used brand name Loc-tite.
Otherwise its screw extract time. I suggest Micro-grabits. Only reliable option IME.
Apply some heat to the bolt with a tiny tiny torch to hopefully not damage the aluminum nearby? Should help release the threadlocker.
Everyone knows you can only use the wrenches on the front brake rotor bolts of a 2007 Triumph Rocket III. What an embarrassment.
I forgot about the part where you take your little bike to the hardware store and it melts the top end on the way back and you have to push it home. And also the part about how cylinders for it are unobtanium.
Everything I see is West Coast.
Did you see this one on Craigslist in Kernville/Bakersfield, CA area: https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/for/d/kernville-yamaha-riva-scooter-125cc/7854641887.html
Or this one in the Echo Park / Los Angeles area: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/mpo/d/los-angeles-yamaha-riva/7864964766.html
Or this really, really cool-looking one in Oakland: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/d/oakland-1985-yamaha-riva-180/7863873317.html
Or this one for parts in Seattle: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/d/seattle-for-parts-yamaha-riva-xc180n/7864979997.html
I did a winter project with a friend, rebuilding an original Trident rolling basket. He had always wanted one. I have never hated any motorcycle as much as that one. We finish it, the snow melts, it runs great, sounds awesome, rides like shit, he loved it anyway. It lasted a full 11 days before it sheared a wristpin and launched a piston through the head.
Im sure that’s just mechanical but it reads as something more painful and possibly deadly